In 2019, we came up with the first and only aftermarket 4500/5500 steering upgrade in the world. In June of 2024, we improved this steering linkage even more by offering it as a fully bolt-in setup! The linkage is the same, using 2" OD x .250" wall DOM tube for the tie rod and 1.5" OD x .250" wall DOM tube for the drag link. Both bars are bent for clearance and better angles. We use 7/8" chromoly heims at the ends of both bars and include all of the hardware needed to install the linkage on your truck. Drill-out kits will need to drill the knuckles and pitman arm to a 7/8" bore, but if you choose the new bolt-in option, you do not need to drill anything at all. This setup is much stronger than the OEM linkage, the heims are safer and easier to replace than a standard TRE, and we use Grade 8 hardware to secure it all to your truck. If you want to run a steering stabilizer, you'll need to add our optional stabilizer clamp because there is not a provision on the tie rod to attach a stabilizer otherwise.
The factory linkage is good, but if you're reading this you probably already realized that the factory tie rod ends are not great and they are expensive to replace. Add in the fact that the OEM parts can be backordered for months at a time, and you'll start to find a lot of value in our upgraded linkage. The only part of our steering linkage that will ever need to be replaced are the rod ends themselves, and they are only $40 each (as of June 2024). We typically see at least 5 years out of these heim joints in severe conditions before they need to be replaced, and replacing them can be done with basic hand tools in just a few minutes, without the need to realign the truck. Heims are much, much stronger than TREs and are much safer too. Since the heim is fully captured in place, even if it were to come apart (which they never do), the steering will still be intact. When a TRE comes apart (it happens fairly often), you are not able to steer the truck at all.
One benefit to our steering linkage is that we do not use adjuster sleeves anywhere. This does make the initial alignment a little more time-consuming, but once the alignment is set and the jam nuts are torqued down, you will not need to have the toe alignment set again. Adjuster sleeves are a problem on all Dodge trucks, and there have been recalls on them in the past. They make alignments easier, but how often are you aligning your truck? We don't think it makes sense to compromise a steering kit just to make an alignment tech's job easier once in a while. We make a simple but incredibly strong linkage that will keep your truck pointed straight for many years. You can beat on our steering and it will take the abuse. The tie rods on these trucks get hit by rocks, logs, stumps, and other debris when you're not on a paved road. When you hit something with the OEM tie rod, it will bend and stay bent. With DOM tube, it will bounce back into shape in all but the most extreme cases.
If you choose the drill-out kit, drilling the knuckles is easy and there really isn't any need to ever go back to stock once this is done. The pitman arm is a little harder to drill because it's forged steel, but it can be done with a drill while the pitman arm is still on the truck. Just use a sharp bit, cutting oil, and go slow. Start with a 13/16" bit first and then work up to the 7/8" bit.
The bolt-in version of this linkage does not require any drilling or modification of the truck at all. You simply remove the OEM linkage, and bolt our new linkage up using the provided hardware. We provide stainless tapered sleeves that go into the knuckles and pitman arm to convert those holes to a straight bore, and then we use 5/8" Grade 8 hardware to bolt the heims and misalignment hardware to the knuckles and pitman arm. It's still a very simple setup, but we had to custom machine a lot of the hardware to make this work.
These are built to order unless otherwise noted. Please see our
help desk for current lead times.
This fits all Ram 4500/5500 2x4 and 4x4 trucks from 2008-2024.
If you have a 2013+ Ram 3500 Cab and Chassis, we have a replacement steering kit available for those trucks separately. Check out part number 1039 here on the site. It is sold as a bolt-in kit.
If you don't already have our 4500/5500 adjustable track bar, you should consider that upgrade as well. The track bars on these trucks almost always wear out faster than the TREs on the steering kit, so if you have loose steering, part of the issue could be the track bar. Our track bar bolts in without any modifications and will tighten up your front end a lot, plus you have the ability to adjust the axle side to side to get it squared up. If you are having issues with the tires rubbing on one side of the truck and not the other, that's usually from the axle being off center. See related products below for a link to the adjustable track bar, or search part number 3030.
Answers to Common Questions:
Heims are not DOT stamped, but that does not make them illegal to use on the highway. Most TREs are not stamped with DOT numbers either. What "DOT approval" is, is simply a process of having a part certified by DOT. It's not a requirement, but simply a certification. Some states may require it for commercial applications, most states don't. It is up to you to decide whether it is something you can run or not based on your state's laws. Heims are much stronger and much safer than traditional tie rod ends, there is no good reason for them to be against the law anywhere.
Drilling the knuckles takes about 5 minutes each, drilling the pitman arm takes about 20-30 minutes because it's forged. What we do is drill the knuckles first (use cutting oil and go slow), then drill the pitman arm with staggered drill bits instead of just trying to run a 7/8" bit through there in one pass. You can also remove the pitman arm and take it to a machine shop where they can mill it out, but a good 1/2" drill and sharp drill bits will get the job done quicker than if you were to remove the pitman arm in most cases. You will be drilling all holes out to 7/8" straight bore.
Alignment on these trucks is very simple, a lot of shops try to make it seem more complex than it is. They are only doing two things - toe and caster. Camber is not adjustable unless you have adjustable ball joints. So to put this steering on, what we do is park the truck on flat ground, remove the factory steering, and then adjust the DOR steering to fit. With the truck on the ground, the tires won't move and you can keep the steering wheel centered pretty easily. Adjust the heims on the tie rod until the tie rod slides up into place easily, then do the same thing with the drag link. If/when you have the truck aligned, the only thing they need to do is check your toe and adjust the tie rod as needed. Then they will make sure your steering wheel is centered. Do not leave the alignment shop without checking the jam nuts, alignment techs are notorious for not tightening them down and this will create some major issues. Take a big crescent wrench with you and make sure they are tight against the tube, not against the heim.
